Cutting pieces and Staystitching

Hi!

In our last post, we talk about supplies and fabrics recommended for our Salt and Pepper sewing pattern and today is time to start working and have all the pattern pieces ready to start sewing.

You can read de first post of the sewalong here, and find some inspiration here.

PIECES AND SEAM ALLOWANCE

As you already know, in this Sew Along we are sewing we are sewing version 3, yoke C, so the pattern pieces you are going to need are the following ones:

• Piece 1. Front (x2)
• Piece 2BC. Back (x1 fold)
• Piece 4BC. Yoke (x4 fold)
• Piece 5. Collar(x2)
• Piece 6. Sleeve(x4)

We need to interface the following pattern pieces (without including seam allowances):

• Piece 5. Collar (interface one piece)
• Piece 6. Sleeve (interface 2 pieces)

Once we know all the pattern pieces we need, copy them in a separate piece of paper and cut them all. In piece 2BC, the back, we need to make a cut where it is indicated on the pattern piece for this yoke version.

Adding seam allowances and cutting the fabric

This pattern does not include seam allowances so we need to add them.We can add them on the paper pattern pieces, or in the fabric, as you prefer. We add them to the fabric, once the pattern paper pieces are located and secure by pins. Also mark the seam line which will help you to sew more precisely.

Put the pattern pieces on your fabric, secure with pins and add 1cm (or 1.5cm) seam allowance around the pattern pieces (refer to the cutting diagram to determine the amount of seam allowance to add for each pattern piece) and 3cm (or 4cm) for the hem. Remember to mark the seam allowances and also the seam lines of each of you pattern pieces to help you during the sewing process.

We also need to transfer all the markings from the pattern onto the fabric, always transfer those marks onto the wrong side of the fabric, using chalk or special fabric-marker. To transfer the notches we will make small cuts.

Be sure to mark the notches included in every single piece but pay special attention to the ones included in piece 2BC:Back and piece 4BC: Yoke.  Also mark the notches indicated in piece  5: Neck: they indicate the insertion of the yoke in the collar. (For more information, refer to the Pattern Booklet, STEP 3: Version C: Double yoke and back gap)

These notches delimit the shape of the yoke so we need to mark them very precisely onto our fabric pattern pieces. If not, we can distort the final shape of the yoke and the back.

STAYSTITCH

Staystitching is a straight stitch sewn through one layer of fabric and it is used around a curve to prevent stretching or distorsing during the construction process. It is commonly used around necklines, armholes and on diagonal seams. Preferably, It should be done right after cutting to minimize any distortion.

Staystitching should be applied inside the stitching line and a short stitch length should be used. Staystitcheing is not removed because they should be sewn about 3mm within the seamallowance, so you won´t see them from the outside of the garment.

Directional stitching of the bodice area

The neckline edge of a garment is cut on the bias but the collar is on the straight grain. It will be necessary to stay stitch the neckline for the collar to fit properly.

We also need to staystitch the upper edge of the back pattern piece. But instead of stitch, we are going to apply a 1cm piece of fusible interface (see image). This step will be further detailed when we get to the yoke assembly. But it is preferable to stabilize as soon as possible to avoid any deformation in this part of the garment.

And, that´s it! We have all the pieces ready to be sewn. In the next post we start sewing darts and preparing the plackets. See you soon!