We have already prepared all the materials we need to sew, so today we start cutting all the pieces of our shirt and staystitching them, so once we start sewing, as we are using jersey fabrics, the pieces don´t distort or stretch. Every single piece of the pattern has 1cm seam allowance included if not, it is indicated on the pattern. You can check seam allowances on the cut layout included in the pattern instructions, and also down below.
CUTTING THE PIECES
Once we have chosen the size, trace the pattern onto paper and cut the pieces, include, in every piece, its number, the grainline, how many times do you have to cut that piece and the rest of the marks: darts, buttonholes, notches…
Then, place the paper pieces on to the fabric, as it is shown in the cutting layout. See carefully the cutting layout so you place your pattern paper pieces in the most effective way to save fabric. Fold the fabric along the selvedge (grainline direction) as it is shown in the cutting layout. Place the pieces in the fold or in the grainline direction and measure that line so the direction is parallel to the selvedge.
This placement can change from one size to another, so adapt it as best as you can in order to save as much fabric as possible.
Once you have your pieces on to the fabric, cut them carefully by the pattern line. And VERY IMPORTANT! place the pieces with the pattern text face up, so the placket will meet the bodice and the sleeve. If you prefer the placket on the right side, you have to turn around the bodice and the sleeve pieces.
STAYSTITCHING THE EDGES
As we explained to you in our special post about jersey fabrics, before we start sewing we need to staystitch the neckline of our shirt using fiseline or fusible interfacing cut into 8mm width strips.
The fiseline has a chain stitch strap that should be placed on the sewing line. Place the fusible part on the wrong side of the fabric and press using your iron. Use a cotton cloth to cover the fiseline while ironing in order to avoid damages, because the fiseline is very fine and delicate. Do not pull the fiseline while ironing because you can create gathers on the fabric. You also need to staystitch the placket to avoid distortion.
And here you have a video which shows how to stabilize with this fusible interfacing:
And that´s all for today´s post! Tomorrow we start with sleeves and placket, do not miss it out!